Kart Buying Guide
Karts are the most accessible entry point in motorsport and also one of the easiest purchases to get wrong. Classes, chassis, and engines all matter, but not always in the way first-time buyers expect. Here's what to focus on.
Pick your class first
The class determines everything else: the chassis, the engine, the tires, and what your ongoing costs look like. Buying a kart without knowing which class you're running is like buying a race car without knowing which series you're entering.
The most common classes in the US are LO206, KA100, TaG (various), Rotax, and shifter (125cc or 80cc). LO206 is the most beginner-friendly and cheapest to run. Rotax and KA100 are faster and more competitive. Shifter karts are a different category entirely, significantly faster, more physical, and much more expensive to maintain.
Before you buy, go to your local track and find out what classes have the most competition. A kart that's the wrong class for your track means racing alone. Class depth matters more than horsepower.
Chassis: age and condition
Kart chassis wear out. The frame flexes as part of how the kart handles, and over time that flex characteristic changes. A heavily used chassis may feel dead compared to a newer one, even if it looks fine visually.
Ask how many hours are on the frame and whether it's been in any significant contact. Bent or repaired chassis tubes are a red flag, a straightened chassis rarely handles the same as an undamaged one.
For beginners, chassis brand matters less than condition and class eligibility. CRG, Tony Kart, Birel, FA Kart, and OTK are all competitive and well-supported. Buy the best condition chassis you can afford over buying a prestigious brand in rough shape.
Engine condition
For LO206, ask for the engine seal number and whether it's been opened. A sealed LO206 is a known quantity. An unsealed one raises questions even if the seller claims it's untouched.
For KA100, Rotax, and TaG engines, ask for the rebuild history and hours. These engines have defined rebuild intervals. Buying an engine that's past its interval means a rebuild before you race.
Shifter engines are significantly more complex and expensive to rebuild. If you're new to karting, start with a 4-stroke or single-speed class before going to a shifter.
What should be included
A complete kart package is worth more than a bare chassis. Look for listings that include a stand, tire set, fuel system, and spare parts. These add up quickly when bought separately.
- Kart stand
- Current or recent tire set
- Fuel jug and filter
- Sprocket and chain set
- Basic setup tools (camber gauge, corner weights)
- Spare axle, bearings, and brake pads
- Rain tires if applicable to the class
Buying on Monday Auctions
Every kart listing on Monday Auctions is reviewed before it goes live. Read the full description carefully, check the photos for chassis condition and engine details, and ask specific questions before the auction ends.
The buyer fee is 3%, capped at $2,500. For most kart purchases that cap won't apply, but factor the fee into your total budget before you bid.